Canada

The better America. The land of maple syrup and crystal-clear streams. Where nature seems endless, stretching across green valleys, millions of lakes, and snow-capped mountain peaks. A country that spans the Great Lakes of North America all the way up to the icy north, ending just a few kilometers from Greenland. Towns that can only be reached by seaplane and aren’t immune to snow squalls even in the height of summer.

That is Canada. A country on an XXL scale – it could be the twin brother of the U.S. And yet it feels completely different. There are the people and a culture that strikes us as almost European. Bilingualism. A robust social welfare system. Less religious and political fanaticism. A different conception of freedom. Close – and yet worlds apart.

Skyline of Toronto

Toronto. It’s arguably the most American of all Canadian cities. Situated on Lake Ontario and surrounded by sprawling suburbs, a network of miles of dead-straight streets stretches through the city and its metropolitan area. Toronto sits at the center of this web like a giant spider. And in every way, this city feels quintessentially American: buildings of steel and glass reach toward the sky. A television tower of superlatives, which was the world’s tallest freestanding structure until 2007.

Everything about this city seems to be made of gold as we arrive in Toronto in the late-summer afternoon light. The facades reflect the low-hanging sun. We refuel with sandwiches and root beer. The next morning, we take the ferry to Toronto Island while a summer thunderstorm brews over the city. Luckily for us, it drives most of the day-trippers off the island. So we stroll past deserted recreational facilities, lonely popcorn stands, silent amusement rides, and empty lookouts.

By evening, the thunderstorm has passed. The view from the island across to the skyline is one of a kind. Toronto seems to glow, as if the lightning had charged the city. A sparkling silver nugget – a true treasure.

Maple Leaf Car in Toronto
Canadian Flags in Toronto
Skyline of Toronto

A change of scenery. From the modern metropolis of Toronto to the tranquil provincial capital of Ottawa. Although more than a million people live here as well, the city feels much more provincial. There are no skyscrapers, traffic jams, crowds, or glass facades. Instead, a neo-Gothic parliament building and an iconic church dominate the cityscape. The Ottawa River flows right through the middle of the city, separating not only the capital from the municipality of Gatineau but also the provinces of Ontario and Quebec – and thus the English-speaking from the French-speaking parts of the country.

We wander leisurely through the streets. A first hint of fall drifts our way; the temperatures are noticeably milder than they were in Toronto. It’s a Monday morning, and there are only a few people out and about in the parks and public squares. A couple of fishermen sit on the banks of the Ottawa River. But they seem more captivated by the tranquility and the steady flow of the river than truly interested in their potential catch.

Ottawa Church
Ottawa under Construction
Fisherman in Ottawa

We take the Greyhound bus deeper into Quebec, the French-speaking part of Canada. And we feel more lost than ever. To our surprise, the host of our Airbnb doesn’t speak a word of English – and we’re just as clueless when it comes to French. Many other people we meet also speak only broken English, if any at all.

Temperatures have dropped further as September has progressed. Sunshine and brief rain showers keep alternating. Montreal strikes us as a mix of tranquil Ottawa and urban Toronto. There are skyscrapers and the beginnings of a skyline, but everything seems smaller and less imposing. At the same time, a large church rises here as well: Notre-Dame de Montréal. The distances are long, and unlike in Ottawa, the city is almost impossible to explore on foot. Yet somehow, Montreal doesn’t win our hearts. We don’t even know exactly why. It just doesn’t click.

In the evening, we climb Mont Royal. A city park with a mountain – or a mountain with a city park. There’s an observation deck and a piano anyone can play. Teenagers strum a few notes here and there; every so often, someone plays a song by Leonard Cohen, arguably the city’s most famous son. We watch as night falls over Montreal and a small sea of lights comes to life at our feet.

Notre Dame de Montreal
Notre Dame de Montreal
Piano at Night in Montreal
Market in Montreal
Market in Montreal
Chili-Viagra on a market in Montreal
Market in Montreal
Skyline of Montreal

As the last notes of the piano fade, so does our journey through Canada’s major cities. A country this vast naturally calls for a sequel. The boundless North, highways stretching for hundreds of miles through endless coniferous forests, turquoise mountain lakes, and snow-capped peaks – there wasn’t time for any of that this trip.

Canada may be less diverse in terms of landscape than the U.S., but it captivates with its blend of North American urbanity and European culture, which is reflected in its architecture as well as in its language and people. Canada isn’t a “better America,” as is often claimed with a wink. It’s similar – and yet completely different.

There are the fast-food chains, the oversized cars, and the endless roads through uninhabited countryside. But there’s also a strong Francophone influence, a robust welfare state, and an entirely different mindset. Perhaps that’s why Canada isn’t an alternative to the U.S., but rather its calm brother – more laid-back, quieter, and fascinating in its own unique way.

Info about our trip