Sakaeo
The province of Sakaeo is probably only a transit point for most travelers to Southeast Asia. Anyone traveling from Angkor Wat in Cambodia to Bangkok will drive right through this province. And anyone looking at the rice fields and steep mountains from the window of a passing bus might quickly come to the conclusion that Sakaeo has little to offer.
This is precisely where the charm and quiet idyll of this border region lies. Between the pleasant boredom and small, hidden gems, you will find a pleasant tranquility far away from the crowds of tourists. It is well worth getting off the bus and spending two or three nights here.
We only reach the province late, so we rumble along country lanes in complete darkness to get to our accommodation. Only the next morning, in the golden morning light, we realize what a picturesque idyll we have found ourselves in. Sunflowers sway gently in the wind as if they want to touch the sky and lotus blossoms open up to the day. A cat roams through the grass, its gaze calm and knowing, as if it were the guardian of this little paradise and the three simple huts above the pond. Time seems to stand still here. The noise of the world becomes quieter. It is a place of contemplation, a reminder that the essential often lies in simplicity. No luxury, no spa, no pool – and yet this place will remain one of the most beautiful accommodations on our trip.
As we have breakfast, the sun rises over the pointed mountains on the horizon. The shadows become harsher, the temperature rises abruptly. The magic of the morning vanishes for the moment.
The cliffs of the three striking limestone mountains rise up like a gigantic stone curtain. Several caves lead into its inner world. Early in the morning, mothers and grandmothers sit in the parking lot of the cave temple Wat Tham Khao Chakan. They sell drinks, bananas and unnecessary items. Their children play in the shade instead of sitting in school. Gangs of monkeys scamper through the trees, stray dogs sleep on the asphalt. Gong strikes emanate from the nearby temple, a monk in an orange robe sweeps up withered leaves from an amla tree.
A steep but short climb leads us up to a viewpoint in the rock face. Monkeys curiously follow our steps. We pass a shrine guarded by an old monk. He looks at us blankly. The Buddha smiles at us in a kind and gentle manner.
Once we reach the viewpoint, a panorama of wide fields, plantations, industrial halls and main roads lies in front of us. Bats sleep in the crevices of the rock above us.
We stop for lunch at a modern Thai restaurant on the highway. Suddenly, a group of American teenagers from Hawaii come streaming in. They are on an educational trip from Vietnam to Thailand, explains the tour guide, who apologizes for the noise. Soon after, we leave the highway and drive along small country roads deeper and deeper into a rural Thailand that hardly any other bus traveler is likely to experience.
We leave our car at a barrier and wander into a dreamlike landscape. Wind and water have created sculptures in Lalu that tell of time, of change and permanence. The bizarre formations look like frozen movements, as if the earth itself had paused for a moment to pose.
Sakaeo surprised us. There are no raging rivers, no dream beaches, no sea, no cities worth seeing and no majestic temples. But the tranquil province is the perfect place to take a break from your journey, take a deep breath and focus on the little things. Because too often we tick off photo motifs and Instagram spots, travel to places because so many people have traveled to them before us and found them to be good. The inconspicuous waterfalls, forests and hills of Sakaeo offer travelers a great opportunity to discover something special in the dull mediocrity. And that’s not such a bad thing.
Info about our trip
We crossed the province of Sakaeo on our way from Koh Chang to Nang Rong. We had actually haphazardly booked a night in a cheap accommodation to make a stopover on the long journey. We were all the more impressed not only by our accommodation, but also by its surroundings. Certainly, a trip to Sakaeo alone is hardly worthwhile. But if you are passing through, you should definitely consider taking a closer look at the province. There are beautiful waterfalls, the Lalu we visited, mountain temples and the Sadok Kok Thom History Park on the Cambodian border – so there’s plenty to do for two to three days.
Sakaeo is fairly untouristy, at least off the main road that leads from the Cambodian border town of Poipet towards Bangkok. The price level is therefore rather low.
Along Route 33 from Cambodia to Ayutthaya/direction Bangkok, there are a handful of larger towns where you will find better restaurants and accommodation. Away from these, you will have to rely almost exclusively on Thai soup kitchens and night markets. If this is too delicate for you, there is at least one 7-Eleven in every larger settlement.
The idyllic and centrally located Baan Hug Na is a little piece of paradise. Surrounded by sunflower fields and lotus ponds, three simple huts, each with air conditioning and its own terrace, offer a unique experience. The ideal place to unwind, explore the surroundings and simply hang out. The small restaurant also offers creative, modern food variations.
Please note that a lot of border traffic flows through Sakaeo and that this is probably the most important border crossing between Thailand and Cambodia. Accordingly, you should take extra care when driving along Route 33. Increased transit traffic is also always associated with a potential increase in crime. So be a little bit more vigilant than usual. Basically, however, you have nothing to fear in Sakaeo.
Thai society is very open-hearted and fond of children. It was not uncommon to see a bunch of Thais (mainly women) standing around our boy. The way Thais treat children is different to what we are used to in Europe. We would never go up to a stranger’s child and want to take it in our arms. This happens all the time in Thailand – people don’t even ask beforehand. You should also be prepared for Thais to take photos of your children – often without being asked. They will quickly whip out their smartphone and take a selfie with the blond, little farang (foreigner). Think about how you want to deal with this – from our Western perspective – cross-border behavior. You won’t always be able to prevent it. Be respectful and smile and let your counterpart know that you would like a little more distance. At the same time, you are even more welcome everywhere with children and we were often given preferential treatment (e.g. in queues).
However, don’t expect extra changing rooms anywhere – the sanitary facilities are often in an inadequate condition anyway. So take wet wipes and disinfectant gel with you. You can buy basic baby supplies in any 7/11 or supermarket. Diapers are not cheap and are often only available in large packs. It’s best to leave the baby carriage/stroller at home. The sidewalks are usually too bad and there are too many pedestrians and cars, especially in Bangkok, so you won’t have much fun with it. The most flexible option is a baby carrier.
The easiest way to explore Sakaeo is by car, especially as the traffic is very quiet and manageable. If you don’t want to or can’t drive yourself, it shouldn’t be a problem to find a minivan or intercity bus to Sakaeo.
- A very good introduction to Thailand’s history in general can be found in Thailand’s Political History: From the 13th Century to Recent Times by B. J. Terwiel