Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai is the gateway to a different Thailand. Far from the southern dream beaches, away from the historical parks of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai, the skyscrapers of Bangkok and the dusty plains of Isaan. Chiang Mai is the Rose of the North, surrounded by mountains, rich in culture and diverse ethnicities. Travel nomads and long-term backpackers have discovered the region for themselves as a quiet antipole to Thailand’s sex and party destinations.
A bicycle tour is the best way to explore Chiang Mai. The old moat surrounds the historic part of the city. Between the alleyways of the old town, we cycle around temples and stop for a short break at the market. The city seems to be different from other cities in central or southern Thailand. Is it the fading echo of the Lan Na culture? A slightly different architecture, adapted to the cooler climate? The geographical proximity to Myanmar and Laos and various hill tribes? We don’t know.
In the evening, we sit on the banks of the Ping River. The colorful lights of restaurants are reflected in the water. Another cold beer, then we head to the crowded Night Bazaar with its street food stalls, bars and the Hard Rock Cafe. Here you can see the tourist side of the city where you can’t do without a party. There are also bars with pink or red neon lights and women in short skirts sipping a drink.
A trip to Chiang Mai is not complete without an excursion into nature and the Doi Inthanon National Park. Everything that backpackers like is on offer: rafting, climbing, jungle tours, elephant washing. Nature belongs to humans – it is their playground.
The road winds its way past waterfalls up to the summit of Mount Doi Inthanon. Even when it is over 30° Celsius in the city, a cool breeze blows up here and sometimes the summit sinks into a sea of clouds. The Thai army built the royal couple their own chedi on the summit of Thailand’s highest mountain to celebrate their 60th birthdays.
Hill tribes such as the Hmong and Karen populate the north of Thailand, as well as regions in neighboring countries. They stand at the tourist sites, dressed in traditional costumes. Women and their children smile into the camera for a few banknotes and sell handmade souvenirs.
Chris' Tip
If you opt for a day tour, make sure that you choose a reputable and sustainable provider. Some tour operators simply pack too much into a day trip and often include controversial activities such as elephant rides or visits to ethnic minorities who are presented like zoo animals. If you want to get involved in the conservation and protection of Thai elephants, visit the Save Elephant Foundation, which we also support.
Chiang Mai is a Thailand without the sea and beaches. A somewhat quieter Thailand, perhaps a more original Thailand. Fewer bars, less sex tourism, fewer parties. A Thailand with lush nature and a milder climate. Long-term travelers and expats appreciate the peaceful and idyllic north without mass tourism and the hustle and bustle of Bangkok.
Info about our trip
If you want to see something of Thailand, you can’t miss Chiang Mai. So far we have been to the city itself several times and – without knowing why – we find it a bit boring and pale. But that’s our opinion and we can’t really say anything against Chiang Mai, except that we prefer to travel to other cities and regions in Thailand. However, the province of Chiang Mai is not just about the capital of the same name, but also offers many varied activities of a sporting and cultural nature. If you want to go hiking, climbing, rafting, take a cooking course, bathe with elephants and explore Doi Inthanon National Park, then plan at least a week for this beautiful province.
Chiang Mai is generally a fairly inexpensive city, as it offers many services and tourist infrastructure. However, as you probably won’t be staying in your hotel room all day and there is a great natural environment with numerous leisure activities, you will certainly spend money on one or two excursions. Of course, this can quickly add up, but it is highly recommended. However, please always make sure that you choose a reputable and sustainable tour operator.
You can find cheap and authentic food at the night market. If you want to spend a nice evening by the river in a good restaurant, we recommend the various restaurants and bars directly on the Iron Bridge on the west bank (corner of Charoen Prathet Road / Loi Kroh Road) in the east of the city. We went to Chef’s Together here, for example.
Every time we were in Chiang Mai, we stayed in different hotels and guesthouses that never really convinced us and that we cannot recommend. So try your luck yourself!
As a very touristy city, we don’t want to say that there won’t be pickpockets out and about, especially in the evening and at night in the busy areas. So keep an eye on your valuables.
Thai society is very open-hearted and fond of children. It was not uncommon to see a bunch of Thais (mainly women) standing around our boy. The way Thais treat children is different to what we are used to in Europe. We would never go up to a stranger’s child and want to take it in our arms. This happens all the time in Thailand – people don’t even ask beforehand. You should also be prepared for Thais to take photos of your children – often without being asked. They will quickly whip out their smartphone and take a selfie with the blond, little farang (foreigner). Think about how you want to deal with this – from our Western perspective – cross-border behavior. You won’t always be able to prevent it. Be respectful and smile and let your counterpart know that you would like a little more distance. At the same time, you are even more welcome everywhere with children and we were often given preferential treatment (e.g. in queues).
However, don’t expect extra changing rooms anywhere – the sanitary facilities are often in an inadequate condition anyway. So take wet wipes and disinfectant gel with you. You can buy basic baby supplies in any 7/11 or supermarket. Diapers are not cheap and are often only available in large packs. It’s best to leave the baby carriage/stroller at home. The sidewalks are usually too bad and there are too many pedestrians and cars, especially in Bangkok, so you won’t have much fun with it. The most flexible option is a baby carrier.
You can explore the city itself on foot or hire a bike. Excursions in the surrounding area are best done with a rental car or car with a guide. Of course, you can also hire a scooter, but the road to Doi Inthanon is particularly long and the weather can be very uncomfortable above a certain altitude, depending on the time of year.
There are also numerous packed day tours that take you from one tourist attraction to the next. There are many black sheep here and the bottom line is that there is simply not enough time to enjoy all the sights on such tours. Nevertheless, these tours can be a good way to experience as much as possible in the shortest possible time.
- We haven’t read it ourselves yet, but it sounds promising: Enchanted Land: Foreign Writings About Chiang Mai in the Early 20th Century by Graham Jeffcoat
- A very good introduction to Thailand’s history in general can be found in Thailand’s Political History: From the 13th Century to Recent Times by B. J. Terwiel