Surin

The province of Surin lies on the Cambodian border. Like its neighboring provinces, Surin is characterized by agriculture and the remains of ancient Khmer ruins. The province is one of the poorest regions in Thailand: its temples seem less golden, its capital less bustling. Nevertheless, there are some small cultural treasures to be discovered here. These include traditional silversmithing and silk production, as well as elephant breeding and training. The local government hoped that this would attract tourists and encourage them to visit. So far, the rush has failed to materialize—the craft town of Khwao Sinarin seems almost deserted during our visit. A lone woman weaves a large silk cloth on the main street, and the silversmith is surprised by our visit.

Wat Phothiyan

We rush along Highway 226 towards Surin. Suddenly, the whitewashed head of a Buddha looms up on our right. The setting sun casts its last rays of light onto its crown, transforming it into pure gold. We turn around and park in the courtyard of the simple monastery. The monks are doing their evening ablutions at the back of the garden: they shave their heads, clean themselves, and tie their robes. Dogs roam between their houses and a child plays wearily in a corner. Only the traffic noise from the adjacent road breaks this stoic calm.

Wat Phothiyan

We spend the night at the Bamboo Conservation Farm, where an architect has created a small, idyllic resort out of bamboo and shipping containers. An evening beer by the pond, breakfast on the terrace. Then we set off for Surin. The small town has little to offer. We stop for a photo at the monument to the historic founder of the town – opposite him stands a horde of war elephants. Their breeding has a long tradition here, mainly cultivated by the Kuy ethnic minority, and is still an important industry today. The elephant can also be found in the coat of arms of Surin province.

Phraya Surin Phakdi Si Narong Changwang (Pum) Monument
Phraya Surin Phakdi Si Narong Changwang (Pum) Monument

Surin is not love at first sight; it is perhaps the coconut among the provinces. Hard and uninteresting on the outside, but those who take the trouble and devote time to it will discover its delicious interior. Surin is home to hidden Khmer culture, ancient ruins, and temple sites. A long tradition of craftsmanship can be discovered here, and anyone looking for a break from the tourist crowds on the beaches and from Bangkok will find here just what they are looking for.