Chiang Rai

A region in the mountains, bordered to the north-east by the mighty Mekong. Framed by Myanmar and Laos, at its narrowest point it is only a little more than 100 kilometers to China. A bit lost between tea plantations and jungle, off the main tourist route. A province full of adventure and smuggling stories – that is Chiang Rai.

At night in Chiang Rai

The white temple Wat Rong Khun is known far beyond Thailand’s borders. A work of art, a temple, a mission in life, a tourist attraction, a place of spiritual enlightenment. Everything here is kitsch, everything here is too much of a good thing. And yet it is beautiful.

A bridge leads to the main hall of the temple. In front of it, hundreds of hands stretch out from the ground. Their palms open greedily, they reach for everything they can grasp. The path to happiness and spiritual freedom leads past these miserable creatures that want everything but are ultimately condemned to impoverishment.

 

White Temple in Chiang Rai
White Temple in Chiang Rai
White Temple in Chiang Rai

We spend the afternoon in Chiang Rai at the old runway of the military airfield on the outskirts of the city. It’s a relaxed place to strike up a conversation with Thais. Seniors use the cooler hours of the late day for sports exercises: Tai Chi, cycling, a walk with the dog or a leisurely evening stroll. We are met with smiles and nods; not many foreigners come here.

In the evening, we take a stroll through the town. The Clock Tower stands at a crossroads, shimmering gold in the light of the street lamps. I can’t take a photo, the traffic keeps jamming in front of the camera. The night bazaar looks sleepy, most tourists are stuck in Chiang Mai to the south. The main street is deserted. Following a dark alley, we reach the river. Our gaze falls into the open living rooms of the beautiful old wooden houses. Families have gathered in front of their televisions.

Disused Airfield in Chiang Rai
Disused Airfield in Chiang Rai
Disused Airfield in Chiang Rai
Disused Airfield in Chiang Rai

It’s an early morning. Long before sunrise, we chase our bus through the darkness and wind our way up a curvy road. The higher we get, the more we are surrounded by morning mist. Sometimes a branch or a liana sticks out of nowhere onto the road, sometimes the silhouette of an animal flits across the asphalt. We are disoriented, just following the road markings.

Then our bus glides out of the fog and tired traders blink at us in the headlights. We are joined by a small group of Thais, two dome tents stand not far from the parking lot. Phu Chi Fah is not an insider tip, but the mountain peak is far from overcrowded. Probably also because of the early hour at which you have to arrive for a spectacular sunrise.

After a short climb, it lies before us, the hilly emptiness of Laos. Our viewpoint is right on the border between Thailand and Laos. The spectacular sunrise does not appear this morning – too hazy, too damp. And yet it is a magical moment when the first rays of sunshine make it over the horizon.

Later in the day, a hot coffee and an ice-cold coconut help to combat the tiredness of getting up early. We look at Laos, we look at Myanmar – we are in the Golden Triangle. This is where the Ruak River flows into the Mekong. The air-conditioned rooms of the Opium Museum offer a cool down. The entire region was once an opium center, and there are still hidden production sites in the mountains of Myanmar.

Lunch in Tachilek and then on to the western part of the province. We drive up and down beautiful mountain roads and through vast tea plantations. All we see are government efforts to curb opium cultivation: Tourism, infrastructure, tea as an alternative to opium cultivation. A few decades ago, this was a wild and dangerous region. Today it has been tamed – at least on the Thai side.

At the Golden Triangle Thailand, Laos and Myanmar
Ghost Houses Near Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai is more pristine than neighboring Chiang Mai. It is less touristy, has less action and excitement to offer and is wilder. As far away as possible from the beaches in the south, Chiang Rai is a province that does not feature on many travel itineraries. That makes it all the more beautiful for us.

Info about our trip